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Evelyn, John, 1620-1706

"Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets"

But after all, _latet
anguis in herba_, there's a _Snake_ in the Grass; Luxury, and Excess in
our most innocent Fruitions. There was a time indeed when the Garden
furnish'd Entertainments for the most Renown'd Heroes, virtuous and
excellent Persons; till the Blood-thirsty and Ambitious, over-running
the Nations, and by Murders and Rapine rifl'd the World, to transplant
its Luxury to its new Mistriss, _Rome_. Those whom heretofore [113]two
Acres of Land would have satisfied, and plentifully maintain'd; had
afterwards their very Kitchens almost as large as their first
Territories: Nor was that enough: Entire [114]_Forests_ and _Parks_,
_Warrens_ and _Fish-Ponds_, and ample Lakes to furnish their Tables,
so as Men could not live by one another without Oppression: Nay, and
to shew how the best, and most innocent things may be perverted; they
chang'd those frugal and _inemptas Dapes_ of their Ancestors, to that
Height and Profusion; that we read of [115]_Edicts_ and _Sumptuary
Laws_, enacted to restrain even the Pride and Excess of _Sallets_. But
so it was not when the _Pease-Field_ spread a Table for the Conquerors
of the World, and their Grounds were cultivated _Vomere laureato,
& triumphali aratore_: The greatest Princes took the _Spade_ and the
_Plough-Staff_ in the same Hand they held the Sceptre; and the Noblest
[116]Families thought it no Dishonour, to derive their Names from
_Plants_ and _Sallet-Herbs_; They arriv'd, I say to that Pitch of
ingrossing all that was but green, and could be vary'd by the Cook
(_Heu quam prodiga ventris_!) that, as _Pliny_ tells us (_non sine
pudore_, not without blushing) a poor Man could hardly find a _Thistle_
to dress for his Supper; or what his hungry [117]_Ass_ would not touch,
for fear of pricking his Lips.


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