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Evelyn, John, 1620-1706

"Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets"

And therefore the _French_ do well, to begin with
their _Herbaceous Pottage_, and for the _Cruder_, a Reason is given:
[60]_Prima tibi dabitur Ventri_ Lactuca _movendo_
_Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis_.

And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho m
arkaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary,
[62]_Grataque nobilium Lactuca ciborum_.

But of later Times, they were constant at the _Ante-coenia_, eating
plentifully of _Sallet_, especially of _Lettuce_, and more refrigerating
Herbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found to
expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the _genial Compotation_, the
spirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep: Besides, that being of a
crude nature, more dispos'd, and apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and disturb
a surcharg'd Stomach; they thought convenient to begin with _Sallets_,
and innovate the ancient Usage.
[63]----_Nam Lactuca innatat acri_
_Post Vinum Stomacho_----
For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat,
It floats upon the Stomach----

The _Spaniards_, notwithstanding, eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner,
especially _Lettuce_, beginning with _Fruit_, even before the _Olio_ and
Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine pure, and eating the
best Bread in the World; so as it seems the Question still remains
undecided with them,
[64]_Claudere quae coenas_ Lactuca _solebat avorum_
_Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes?_
The _Sallet_, which of old came in at last,
Why now with it begin we our Repast?

And now since we mention'd _Fruit_, there rises another Scruple:
Whether _Apples_, _Pears_, _Abricots_, _Cherries_, _Plums_, and other
Tree, and _Ort-yard-Fruit_, are to be reckon'd among _Salleting_; and
when likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these do
properly belong to our _Catalogue_ of _Herbs_ and _Plants_, to which
this Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak of
hereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject already
publish'd.


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